Three Gavels

No. 246

  • Private Seating
  • Walking Distance

.2 miles from the Courthouse. A can’t-miss collaboration from Atlanta chefs Ford Fry (JCT Kitchen) and Drew Belline (Floataway Cafe) has given the DeKalb County lunch scene yet another high end option.  Although the place just opened (on 7/13/11), it does not appear to be in need of that unwritten “grace period” critics will give to the newly opened to provide ample time for fine tuning.  Touted as farm-to-table Italian, the menu focuses on local produce and wood fired cooking to create simple yet sophisticated dishes in a relaxed atmosphere (yes, even flip-flops are ok here).  The lunch menu differs very little from the dinner menu and is broken down into several departments. Toasts are great way to begin and feature a selection of hearty spreads you can lather onto crusty and lightly scorched peasant bread.  Selections here range from meatballs with san marzano tomatoes to roasted eggplant with chilies and mint to even a refreshing lemon ricotta with wild mushrooms.  You can choose one ($3), three ($8) or all 5 ($12) if you’re sharing.  If you haven’t already opted for the meatball toast, the open faced meatball sandwich is a great burger alternative.  If you must though, a fine locally raised burger is offered in addition to the 246 take on the Southern fried chicken sandwich.  Under the Flour & Water heading, you will find spaghetti with Georgia white shrimp and breadcrumbs or handmade agnolotti with oyster mushrooms, corn and goat cheese–both come in full and half portions.  Though, with the wood-fired oven in plain view, its difficult to turn down one of the handcrafted pizzas (yes, the other flour/water option).  With a slightly charred crust and elegantly topped like you’ll find in Italy (variations may include buffalo mozzarella, grana padano, anchovies, calabrian chilies, preserved lemon, and local mushrooms) these pies are hard to top in Decatur and will rival most anything you’ll find in the city.  Plates includes several entree-style offerings and the highlight here is the wood roasted skirt steak.  Taking advantage once again of the wood-fired oven, the steak is evenly cooked with minimal charring achieving melt-in-your-mouth results.  This is certainly not where you come if you only have 35 minutes to get back to court but where you go when you have ample time to savor truly great cuisine.  Yet, the beauty here is that you can still walk just a few short blocks back to the courthouse when you’re finished.

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